Experience at Swayambhunath: An Insider's Look

Swayambhunath is heralded as one of the most holy places for the Buddhist world and certainly the most holy in Kathmandu Valley (Boudhanath is a close second). In 2008, the 15th restoration of this site commenced. It was the first "clean-up" in 90 years and the 15th in about 1500 years. This restoration is also noted as one of the largest gold restoration projects. It took 2 years to complete. Believe it or not, I was fortunate enough to attend the consecration of the site post restoration. It was an historic day for the Buddhist world. Let me paint you a picture.

The stupa and surrounding areas were brightly decorated with flags, banners, and flowers. It's golden spire of fresh gild sparkled in the sun. The stupa compound certainly had on it's best dress for this momentous occasion. Fortunately, my co-worker and I arrived early and perched ourselves under an elevated shrine with a great view of the high lama's throne. Sadly, the shrine covering did not shield us from the immense heat of the morning sun! The throne is not a permanent feature of Swayambhunath. It was placed underneath a tent of textiles in front of rows of carpets and cushions anxiously awaiting the arrival of monks. Slowly but surely, the crowds came and the monks filled in. Not surprisingly, the crowds consisted of Asian as well as Western faces. Many were there to pay homage and receive blessing. Others were tourists taking it all in. I'd say I fell into the tourist category taking it all in. ;o) I was just as entranced by the bright colors, the incense, and the sounds of horns and drums (that we sat right next to!) as the next person.

Some minutes later, the tents were full of seated monks waiting playfully for the day's activities. Some people mulled around the tent in idle conversation, others performed habitual devotion, and others waited with great expectation for what was to come. By some unseen cue, the monks under the tent all stood. It was time. The consecration "ceremony" kicked off when the high lama circumambulated (walked around clockwise) the stupa. He had a fine entourage! Before him walked 2 men blowing decorative horns. Behind him walked a trail of monks that served as body guards and directors guiding his every step. Positioned at various places around the stupa were other men blowing much longer horns (including the shrine where my co-worker and I sat). The high lama's entrance and whereabouts could not be mistaken as crowds of people followed waiting for the opportunity to be blessed by his touch. After making one complete circuit, he stopped in front of one of the stupa shrines and prostrated before it. He then accepted offerings from the crowd that he offered to the Buddha shrine on their behalf. It was fascinating. The crowds began to move in - all seeking a touch and blessing. The monks of the high lama's entourage were orderly in their segregation of the lama. They led him to his throne after he lit a butter candle and performed other rituals at the altar. Once he sat, the crowds lined up for their turn to be blessed. At this point, the rows of monks behind the throne were seated and they began chanting. After many blessings, the high lama began to speak. He, of course, spoke in Nepali so my co-worker interpreted for me. At one point, however, the high lama spoke in English. "Do not harm any sentient being." These were his words to the many foreign faces looking at him. This was what he wanted to share with the world.

Volunteers passed out chant books for a group chanting exercise later in the morning. My co-worker and I decided to pass on this aspect of the consecration ceremonies.

On a personal note, I'm not sure what is more heart wrenching: a people born and raised in bondage or people who willfully engage in it as a desperate attempt to seek truth.

I'll post pictures on facebook!