Wednesday, June 30, 2010

The Lobpon

In the Tibetan Buddhist tradition, Lobpon (pronounced lobe paan) is the term or title for a teacher who has received the highest level of teachings. I have been growing fond of our Lobpon through his instruction to our class of 14. The content of our course material is irrelevant for this post because I want to simply share the Lobpon with you.

He is not a tall man and I am uncertain of his age. If I had to guess, I would place him in the mid-twenties. He is slender and small in frame as many Asian men are. He wears the red robes and saffron undershirt of every monk. His head is shaved and he is always well-groomed. He also wears rimless eye glasses that seemingly complete his appearance. We've been told by our translator that he doesn't spend much time with westerners and I'm inclined to believe that we are his first class of westerners. Now that we are in our second week of instruction, he's beginning to relax a bit, smile more, and share a little humor. Humor sometimes loses itself in translation, but the Lobpon's face says it all.

Each morning, he enters the class humbly. We all stand at his entrance showing respect with a slight nod or bow as he passes. At first, I wasn't sure why we did this each morning. I paid little mind and offered little attention as he passed by me on his way to the throne, the place of honor. But my heart grows each day for this man. Each day, I anticipate his arrival more and more and wish to pay him respect. My respect is for his humility and spiritual fervor. Before seating himself, he prostrates before an image of the Buddha, in this case, an ornately painted thangka. He gently steps up and into his throne careful of the state of his robes. Once seated, with his legs crossed and back straight, he situates his robes in the proper fashion. He is very particular. In the Buddhist tradition, even the robes of a monk are treated with respect. We sit after he sits.

Each class begins with a low guttural chant that is quite melodic. I generally follow along in my book of chants listening to his pronunciation of the Tibetan words. I wish I spoke Tibetan. The spiritual tone is high. The Lobpon follows the chant with a moment or two of mumbling prayer. I listen. My heart cries.

For the first few minutes of class, his tone is low. Once he dives into the material, however, he seems to awaken speaking louder, smiling, and occasionally joking. He teaches well though I cannot understand a word he says. He is good and graceful to the translator. The Lobpon seems to come alive the most during the question and answer sessions. He always has an answer accompanied by an analogy. Each question is taken with respect and answered in kind.

Yesterday, I started to feel a new emotion for the Lobpon. I couldn't classify it until this morning's class, though. It's compassion. I won't give justice to the description of my experience this morning, but I pray you'll see a glimpse of Christ's love. I was sitting on my cushions listening and taking notes. I generally sit directly in front of the Lobpon 2 to 3 rows back. He used a word in his lesson that I can only describe as a trigger. Shepherd. At the first mention of this word, I was suddenly overcome with the Spirit. I remembered the Crucifixion and lingered on the sacrifice of our Lord. He seemed to whisper to me: I died for this one also. Tears began to well as my heart yearned to reach this young man and share the love of God. I, then, felt desire as I've rarely felt it before. It was compulsive. I want to meet this man in heaven. Tears fell as I saw an image of he and I greeting each other in recognition, spirit bearing witness to spirit. Joy and thanks were shared between us. He was free. I don't know if this was a vision from God. In truth, it doesn't matter. What matters is God. The compassion I feel for the Lobpon is not from one human being for another. I believe it is from Christ.

This morning God reminded me that He is looking. He is watching. He is with me. And He desires to be with all of us. For God has not destined us for wrath, but for obtaining salvation through our Lord Jesus Christ, who died for us, so that whether we are awake or asleep, we will live together with Him. 1 Thessalonians 5:9-10

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Inside the Classroom

Because I know you are all dying to know, I thought I'd give you a sneak peak into the classroom of my Buddhist studies course. It's actually fascinating! Please enjoy this picture.

Traditional Monastic Studies:


Let me first describe the classroom. It is a rectangular shaped room on one of the upper levels of the monastery. Windows line the 2 longer sides. We occasionally have a nice, cool breeze and sometimes the fan runs when electricity is available. The room is headed by a small throne (don't think of a European throne but instead think of an elevated seat covered in tapestry). Behind the throne is a large thangka, which is a painting of the Buddha and various other Buddhist entities and nature scenes. Rather than chairs and desks, we sit on rows of cushions behind small bench-like tables. These tables come to about mid-calf when standing. Trust me - the novelty of sitting on cushions is quickly fading as my bum and lower back scream rejection!

Beginning at 0800, we receive Buddhist instruction in the style of any monk. The students are expected to arrive to class before the teacher (a Buddhist monk accompanied by an English translator). Arriving late is disrespectful. When the monk enters the class room, all stand. He immediately prostrates himself in devotion to the teaching, I am assuming. As he passes, the students bow their heads in respect. Before he takes his seat, students practicing Buddhism also do the prostrations. Once the monk sits, all have permission to sit. He then leads the class in a chant.

Our monk looks very young, but he is probably much older. We've been told he is of high intelligence, which I do not doubt. He is soft-spoken and unobtrusive in every way. Yet, in the 2 days that we've had class, we've seen him crack a smile once or twice! The instruction he gives is of great importance simply because he is passing knowledge. Teachers and the teaching are given the highest respect not only in Buddhist tradition, but Asian.

The monastic style of teaching is completely foreign to me. It is very slow and repetitive to the point of redundancy. It is also quite basic. The assumption is always made that nothing is known or understood. Questions may not be asked during periods of instruction until the end. What I do appreciate and find quite valuable is the use of analogies. After each teaching or sharing of knowledge, the monk offers an analogy. Not all of the analogies make sense to a western mind, but most do. I find them interesting and a rather effective means of teaching.

This period of instruction lasts for 90 minutes and ends with a final chant to dedicate the merit of the teaching.

Meditation Hour:


After a 15 minute break, we begin a session of meditation. This class also begins and ends with a chant. Right now, we're learning posture. I can honestly say that it's not the most comfortable experience, but I certainly expect to gain better posture from this class! There are 7 points to our posture:

1. Lotus posture - legs loosely crossed with feet resting on top of the thighs. I haven't graduated to the feet on top, so I just sit Indian-style.
2. Hands rest palms down on knees or rest right over left with palms up in the lap
3. Back straight
4. Shoulders straight and pulled back
5. Chin slightly tucked
6. Tongue touching the roof of the mouth
7. Eyes gazing downward (direction of the nose)

At this early stage of learning, we sit in this posture for 15 minutes, then stretch. Then, after brief commentary, we do it again for 15+ minutes. It is perhaps the longest 15 minutes EVER! However, today was much better than yesterday as I learned a trick with my cushion that eases the (mild) pain in my hips and lower back.

Anyway, the point of this meditation is to still the body in order to still the mind. We'll learn different meditation techniques over the next few weeks. I spend the time praying over each of the students in the class and singing praise to God (in my head, of course!). The instructor teaches the need to "give up" conceptual thought in order to attain enlightenment. However, this doesn't match my theology of keeping my mind focused and fixed on the things of God. I'm committed to do just that and to pray for every student and each professor during our meditation hour.

Philosophy Class:


The final 90 minutes of our course are spent with a western professor discussing the historicity of Buddhism from its origin to the various traditions that have evolved over the millennia. This is a much more informal class taught in the western form that I am most familiar (and comfortable) with. Discussion has been fabulous in this class!

Then, it's lunch - which has been excellent every day so far! My co-worker and I have been relying on public transportation this week. It's an adventure every day. We catch a bus to the half-way point and then taxi the remainder of the way. The public transportation system in Nepal is an experience that is little concerned with time or efficiency. It takes about an hour each way. It's not as frustrating as rush hour in Northern Virginia but it's certainly not a good choice if time is important!

So far, all is well. I've had wonderful interactions with the 11-12 other students in the class. I'm interested in each of their stories and why they've come. Perhaps they will unfold in the coming weeks!

Saturday, June 19, 2010

Experience at Swayambhunath: An Insider's Look

Swayambhunath is heralded as one of the most holy places for the Buddhist world and certainly the most holy in Kathmandu Valley (Boudhanath is a close second). In 2008, the 15th restoration of this site commenced. It was the first "clean-up" in 90 years and the 15th in about 1500 years. This restoration is also noted as one of the largest gold restoration projects. It took 2 years to complete. Believe it or not, I was fortunate enough to attend the consecration of the site post restoration. It was an historic day for the Buddhist world. Let me paint you a picture.

The stupa and surrounding areas were brightly decorated with flags, banners, and flowers. It's golden spire of fresh gild sparkled in the sun. The stupa compound certainly had on it's best dress for this momentous occasion. Fortunately, my co-worker and I arrived early and perched ourselves under an elevated shrine with a great view of the high lama's throne. Sadly, the shrine covering did not shield us from the immense heat of the morning sun! The throne is not a permanent feature of Swayambhunath. It was placed underneath a tent of textiles in front of rows of carpets and cushions anxiously awaiting the arrival of monks. Slowly but surely, the crowds came and the monks filled in. Not surprisingly, the crowds consisted of Asian as well as Western faces. Many were there to pay homage and receive blessing. Others were tourists taking it all in. I'd say I fell into the tourist category taking it all in. ;o) I was just as entranced by the bright colors, the incense, and the sounds of horns and drums (that we sat right next to!) as the next person.

Some minutes later, the tents were full of seated monks waiting playfully for the day's activities. Some people mulled around the tent in idle conversation, others performed habitual devotion, and others waited with great expectation for what was to come. By some unseen cue, the monks under the tent all stood. It was time. The consecration "ceremony" kicked off when the high lama circumambulated (walked around clockwise) the stupa. He had a fine entourage! Before him walked 2 men blowing decorative horns. Behind him walked a trail of monks that served as body guards and directors guiding his every step. Positioned at various places around the stupa were other men blowing much longer horns (including the shrine where my co-worker and I sat). The high lama's entrance and whereabouts could not be mistaken as crowds of people followed waiting for the opportunity to be blessed by his touch. After making one complete circuit, he stopped in front of one of the stupa shrines and prostrated before it. He then accepted offerings from the crowd that he offered to the Buddha shrine on their behalf. It was fascinating. The crowds began to move in - all seeking a touch and blessing. The monks of the high lama's entourage were orderly in their segregation of the lama. They led him to his throne after he lit a butter candle and performed other rituals at the altar. Once he sat, the crowds lined up for their turn to be blessed. At this point, the rows of monks behind the throne were seated and they began chanting. After many blessings, the high lama began to speak. He, of course, spoke in Nepali so my co-worker interpreted for me. At one point, however, the high lama spoke in English. "Do not harm any sentient being." These were his words to the many foreign faces looking at him. This was what he wanted to share with the world.

Volunteers passed out chant books for a group chanting exercise later in the morning. My co-worker and I decided to pass on this aspect of the consecration ceremonies.

On a personal note, I'm not sure what is more heart wrenching: a people born and raised in bondage or people who willfully engage in it as a desperate attempt to seek truth.

I'll post pictures on facebook!

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

First Encounter

After my morning bike ride and a brief review of the Nepali alphabet, I went on an exploratory walk. My destination was a large stupa compound with 2 giant buddha statues. After walking across a great field, I found myself at a slight impasse. The river was not fordable for me to reach the interesting compound. So, I continued along the river, walked through a bit of trash juxtaposed with a beautiful garden walk way that ended in a traffic jam of pollution and honking vehicles. What a country! On my return home, I found myself walking near a Nepali woman shielding herself from the sun with a purple umbrella.

"Hello, where are you from?"
"I am from America."
"It's very hot in Nepal. Share my umbrella."

We walked a bit exchanging simple conversation.

"You come to my house. It's right up here."
"OK."

We were soon joined by 2 other women in her family. A sister and a sister-n-law. My new friend lives on the roof of a house that also houses her brother and his family, her parents, and her sister. Maybe more but these were all that I met. We spent our time in a small room that served as bedroom and living area. The next room over was a small kitchen. After declining several beverages, she decided that I must eat because she was hungry. LOL! Before I knew it, her mother brought out a huge plate of bhat, saag, maasu, and a bit of potato (please pray that I don't get sick). Sadly, I couldn't eat it all!!! They kindly forgave me after making numerous comments about my figure.

For more info on Nepalese cuisine: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nepalese_cuisine

Our conversation then moved to Nepali culture and what it's like to be a woman in Nepal. It is better to be unmarried they decided. Once married, the woman must stay at home to wash, clean, cook rice, and care for babies. "She cannot go out," they said. "But unmarried women have no restrictions." They also shared about the poor condition of Nepal. "It is very bad. Lots of pollution. No electricity. Very dirty."

Though very hospitable and welcoming, they did not appear as happy women. Most of what they shared about their lives and way were negative. I could see they wanted more from life. They kept asking why I liked Nepal and wanted to know if America was better. I'm not sure a change of scenery will fulfill the desires of their heart.

Perhaps this will be the beginning of new relationships. Perhaps it was only a brief encounter. I hope it is more. As Kim Walker sings, "we are longing for the glory of the Lord because we know there is so much more."

I'm Here!

I've been in Nepal for almost 48 hours. It's strangely familiar yet strangely foreign. I love it! I'm still recovering from jet lag but I'm pleased to say that I slept until 0530 this morning! This was much better than my 0230 wake up yesterday. The missionaries and I have been dreaming and strategizing for the year. There is much to do and I'm overwhelmed with joy to be part of the smallest endeavor. I pray for all that is to come!

I live in a cute little basement flat with bedroom, living area, kitchen, and bath. Sadly, I have to learn to cook. Hmmm. . .this could be the most challenging part of living in Nepal. LOL! I'm thinking muesli, hard boiled eggs, and PB&J. Sigh! It's not that bad. I can adapt and overcome (don't worry mom!).

I took a short bike ride (short because it was hard!) this morning to start familiarizing myself with the area. 10 minutes to the grocery store. Easy! Traffic. . .not so easy on a bike! I was concerned about exercise before I came out. Not so much anymore. There were a couple of hills that I had to walk up with the bike. Fortunately, I wasn't the only one.

As someone very wise told me recently, this is going to be a year of great significance! In a facebook comment, a growing woman of God replied that it would also be a year of great sacrifice. May it be so.